Table of Contents

Early life
Career
1923—1929: Famous Players–Lasky
1930–1967: Paramount Pictures
1968–1981: Universal Pictures
Design style
Personal life
Death
Legacy
Filmography
Selected design credits
Screen appearances
Accolades
Notes
References
Sources
External links

Edith Head

NameEdith Head
Birth NameEdith Claire Posener
Image
CaptionHead in 1976
Birth Date1897-10-28
Death PlaceLos Angeles, California, U.S.
OccupationCostume designer
Resting PlaceForest Lawn Memorial Park, Glendale, California
Alma Mater
Years Active1923–1981
AwardsAcademy Award for Best Costume Design (8 wins)

Edith Claire Head (; October 28, 1897 – October 24, 1981) was an American film costume designer. She received a record 35 nominations for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design and won a record eight times, making her both the most honored and most nominated woman in the Academy's history. She also holds the Guinness World Record for most-credited costume designer in film history, with a total of 432 credits.

Raised between California and Nevada, Head earned degrees from the University of California, Berkeley and Stanford University before beginning a career as a French and Spanish languages teacher. After taking courses at the Chouinard Art Institute in Los Angeles, she was hired in 1923 as a costume sketch artist at Famous Players–Lasky, which later became Paramount Pictures. She won acclaim for her design of Dorothy Lamour’s trademark sarong in the 1936 film The Jungle Princess, and became a household name after the Academy Award for Best Costume Design was created in 1948. Head was considered exceptional for her close working relationships with her subjects, with whom she consulted extensively; these included virtually every top female star in Hollywood.

Head worked at Paramount for 44 years, and was frequently loaned out by the studio for work on projects for other studios. While under contract at Paramount, she designed the costumes for several films by Alfred Hitchcock, including Notorious (1946), Vertigo (1958), The Birds (1963), and Marnie (1964). In 1968, after Paramount declined to renew her contract, Hitchcock invited her to join Universal Pictures. There she earned her eighth and final Academy Award for her work on The Sting in 1973.

Outside of film, Head was commissioned to design the official women's uniform for the United States Coast Guard in the 1970s, due to the increasing number of women in the Coast Guard, for which she received the Meritorious Public Service Award.

Early life

Head was born Edith Claire Posener on October 28, 1897 in San Bernardino, California, the daughter of Jewish parents, Max Posener and Anna E. Levy. Her father was a naturalized American citizen from Germany who came to the United States in 1876 at age eighteen, while her American mother was born in St. Louis, Missouri in 1875, the daughter of an Austrian father and a Bavarian mother. Shortly before Head's birth, her father opened a small haberdashery in San Bernardino. The business failed within a year, after which he abandoned the family and relocated to El Paso, Texas.

In 1901, Head's mother Anna married Frank Spare, a mining engineer from Pennsylvania. Anna and Frank passed Edith off as their biological child, giving her his surname, and raised her in his Roman Catholic faith. Due to her stepfather's job, the family moved frequently during her childhood to various mining camps, with a significant portion spent in rural Searchlight, Nevada. A shy and introverted only child, Head often spent time building makeshift dollhouses out of cardboard boxes, and creating figures out of greasewood that naturally grew in the desert. She would also create costumes for animals, including her pet dog and cat, as well as wild horned lizards. "I had no other children for playmates," she recalled. "Naturally, all of my intensive imagination in child's play had to be connected to activities I could pursue alone." Head was teased by classmates due to her front teeth never growing in properly, and because of this, rarely smiled.

She completed her elementary school education in Redding, California in 1911, before the family lived for a period in Mexico, where Head learned to speak Spanish. Head and her mother subsequently relocated to Los Angeles, where she graduated from Los Angeles High School.

Head enrolled at the University of California, Berkeley in 1915, and earned a Bachelor of Arts degree in letters and sciences with honors in French. She subsequently enrolled at Stanford University, where she earned a Master of Arts degree in romance languages in 1920. She became a language teacher with her first position as a replacement at The Bishop's School in La Jolla teaching French and Spanish. After one year, she took a position teaching French at the Hollywood School for Girls, where her students included Cecilia and Katherine DeMille, daughters of studio executive Cecil B. DeMille. Wanting a slightly higher salary, she told the school that she could also teach art, even though she had only briefly studied the discipline in high school. To improve her drawing skills, at this point rudimentary, she took evening classes at the Otis Art Institute and Chouinard Art College.

On July 25, 1923, she married Charles Head, a salesman for the Southern California Super Fine Metals Company, and the brother of one of her Chouinard classmates, Betty Head. Due to Charles's drinking problem and her reduced teaching salary during the summer months, Head began seeking work as a sketch artist to help supplement their income.

Career

1923—1929: Famous Players–Lasky

In 1923, despite lacking significant art, design, and costume design experience, the 26-year-old Head was hired as a costume sketch artist at the Famous Players–Lasky studios, which was later absorbed by Paramount Pictures. Later she admitted to "borrowing" other students' sketches for her job interview with the studio: "I was studying seascape and all I could draw was oceans. I needed a portfolio, so I borrowed sketches—I didn't steal them, I asked everybody in the class for a few costume design sketches. And I had the most fantastic assortment you've ever seen in your life. When you get a class of forty to give you sketches, you get a nice selection."

At Paramount, Head studied under lead designers Howard Greer, and later, Travis Banton. Head recounted the experience favorable, saying:

Head began designing costumes for the studio's silent films, commencing with The Wanderer in 1925 and, by the 1930s, had established herself as one of Hollywood's leading costume designers.

1930–1967: Paramount Pictures

Head's costume designs for Victor Mature and Hedy Lamarr in Samson and Delilah (1949), for which she won an Oscar

Head remained employed by Paramount Pictures after the studio absorbed Famous Players–Lasky. Although Head was featured in studio publicity from the mid-1920s, she was originally overshadowed by the studio's lead designers, first Howard Greer, then Travis Banton. Head was instrumental in conspiring against Banton, and after his resignation in 1938 she became a high-profile designer in her own right. Her association with the "sarong" dress designed for Dorothy Lamour in The Hurricane (1937) made her well known among the general public, although Head was a more restrained designer than either Banton or Adrian.

She gained public attention for the top mink-lined gown she created for Ginger Rogers in Lady in the Dark (1944), which caused much comment owing to the mood of wartime austerity. The establishment, in 1949, of the Academy Award for Costume Design further boosted her career, giving her a record-breaking run of Award nominations and wins, beginning with her nomination for The Emperor Waltz. Head and other film designers like Adrian became well known to the public.

Head was known for her unique working style and, unlike many of her male contemporaries, usually consulted extensively with the female stars with whom she worked. As a result, she was a favorite among many of the leading female stars of the 1940s and 1950s, such as Ginger Rogers, Bette Davis, Barbara Stanwyck, Jane Wyman, Rita Hayworth, Shirley MacLaine, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, and Elizabeth Taylor. In fact, Head was frequently "loaned out" by Paramount to other studios at the request of their female stars. She herself always dressed very plainly, preferring thick-framed glasses and conservative two-piece suits.

In 1946, Head worked for the first time with director Alfred Hitchcock on his spy film Notorious. Head was loaned from Paramount to Radio-Keith-Orpheum (RKO) pictures to work with Hitchcock on this film, at the request of actress Ingrid Bergman. In this time period it was more often found that costume designers would design to reflect their own style. Head had a different outlook on this. She felt that it was more important to design pieces that reflected the character. During their time working on Notorious, Head and Hitchcock found that they were like-minded and had the same bluntness in their careers and attitudes. The costumes she designed for this film reflected restraint and the need to blend in. This style suited what Hitchcock was looking for since he did not want the clothes to be the focal point. The two would go on to work together many more times.

Head in 1955

On February 3, 1955 (Season 5 Episode 21), Head appeared as a contestant on the Groucho Marx quiz show You Bet Your Life. She and her partner won a total of $1,540. Her winnings were donated to charity.

Head also authored two books describing her career and design philosophy, The Dress Doctor (1959) and How To Dress For Success (1967). These books were re-edited in 2008 and 2011, respectively.

1968–1981: Universal Pictures

In 1968, at the age of 70, Head left Paramount Pictures and was contracted with Universal Pictures, where she remained until her death in 1981. By this point, Hollywood was rapidly changing from what it had been during Head's heyday in the 1930s-1940s. Studio-based production was giving way to outdoors and on-scene shooting, and many of the actresses from that era whom she worked with and knew intimately had retired or were working less. She thus turned more of her attention to TV, where some old friends such as Olivia de Havilland had begun working. She made a cameo appearance in 1973 on the detective series Columbo beside Anne Baxter, playing herself and displaying her Oscars to date. In 1974, Head received a final Oscar win for her work on The Sting (1973).

In the late 1970s, Head was asked to design a woman's uniform for the United States Coast Guard, because of the increasing number of women in the Coast Guard. Head called the assignment a highlight in her career and received the Meritorious Public Service Award for her efforts. Her designs for a TV mini-series based on the novel Little Women were well received. She also designed the costumes for Elizabeth Taylor in the Hallmark Hall of Fame segment "Return Engagement" (1978).

Her last film project was the black-and-white comedy Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid (1982), starring Steve Martin and Carl Reiner, a job Head was chosen for because of her expertise on 1940s fashions. She modeled Martin and Reiner's outfits on classic film noir and the movie, released in theaters just after her death, was dedicated to her memory.

Design style

Unlike most other designers of her time, Head never undertook couture or wholesale fashion work, opting to "work only in the context of a certain actress in a certain film." Olivia de Havilland, whose costumes were designed by Head for the films To Each His Own (1946) and The Heiress (1949), said: "Every dress was perfect. Just putting them on, I became these women and I knew right where they were in the stories. Edith even came to New York with me before The Heiress and we studied the underwear at the Brooklyn Museum so it would be absolutely authentic."

Head herself regarded her work as apart from the world of fashion design, and did not consider herself a fashion designer. Commenting in 1978 on her view of her profession, she said:

Personal life

On July 25, 1923, she married Charles Head. The marriage ended in divorce in 1938, though she continued to be known professionally as Edith Head for the remainder of her life. She remarried to art director Wiard Ihnen in 1940, a marriage that lasted until his death from prostate cancer in 1979.

Though both of her parents were Jewish, Head was raised practicing Roman Catholicism, the faith of her stepfather, and remained a "staunch Catholic" through her later life. She was a regular parishioner of Good Shepherd Catholic Church in Beverly Hills.

Death

In 1972, Head was diagnosed with myelofibrosis, an incurable bone marrow cancer which causes excessive, uncontrolled scar tissue accumulation in the bone marrow. To treat the disease, Head received regular blood transfusions to prevent severe anemia. Head died at Good Samaritan Hospital in Los Angeles of complications from myelofibrosis on October 24, 1981.

A private funeral mass was held at Good Shepherd Catholic Church in Beverly Hills, where actress Bette Davis gave a brief eulogy. Also in attendance were Elizabeth Taylor, Janet Leigh, Ann Sothern, George Peppard, Loretta Young, Jane Wyman, and Lew Wasserman. She is interred at Forest Lawn Memorial Park in Glendale, California.

Legacy

Head holds the distinction of being the most-credited costume designer in history, with a total of 432 film credits to her name.

Over the course of her career, she was nominated for a total of 35 Academy Awards, annually from 1949 (the first year that the Oscar for Best Costume Design was awarded) through 1966, and won eight times—receiving more Oscars than any other woman.

Head's star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, which she received in 1974, is located at 6504 Hollywood Boulevard.

Filmography

As a costume designer, Head has a total of 432 credits to her name.

Selected design credits

YearFilmNotable performer(s)Notes
1927WingsBowUncredited
1929Saturday Night KidUncredited
1929Wolf SongVélezUncredited
1933She Done Him WrongWest
1934Little Miss MarkerTemple
1936Jungle PrincessLamour
1936Rhythm on the RangeFarmer
1937Ebb Tide
1937The Hurricane (1937 film)yes
1938Dangerous to KnowWong
1938ZazaColbert
1939The Cat and the Canary (1939 film)Goddard
1940Road to Singaporeyes
1940UntamedMorison
1941Lady EveStanwyck
1941Ball of Fire
1941Sullivan's TravelsLake
1942I Married a Witch
1942Road to Zanzibaryes
1942Road to Morocco
1942Holiday InnAstaire
Reynolds
1943Flesh and Fantasyyes
1944Double Indemnity
1944Lady in the DarkRogers
1944Tender Comrade
1944The Uninvited (1944 film)Hussey
Russell
1945I'll Be Seeing Youyes
1945Incendiary BlondeHutton
1945Lost WeekendMilland
Wyman
1945Masquerade in Mexicoyes
1945Christmas in Connecticutyes
1946My Reputation
1946Blue Dahliayes
1946NotoriousBergman
1946Road to Utopiayes
1947Road to Rio
1947Two Mrs. Carrollsyes
1947Cry Wolf
1947The Perils of Pauline (1947 film)yes
1947The Farmer's Daughter (1947 film)Young
1948June BrideDavis
1948Beyond GloryLadd
1949The Heiress (film)de Havilland
1949Samson and DelilahLamarr
Lansbury
1950All About Eveyes
1950The Furies (1950 film)yes
1950Sunset BoulevardSwanson
1951A Place in the Sun (1951 film)Clift
Taylor
Winters
1951Payment on Demandyes
1951Here Comes the Groomyes
1952Just for You
1952Something to Live ForFontaine
1952Road to Baliyes
1952Stolen FaceScott
1953Scared StiffMiranda
1953HoudiniLeigh
1953The War of the Worlds (1953 film)Robinson
1953Those Redheads from SeattleMoorehead
1953Roman HolidayHepburn
1954Sabrina
1954Elephant Walkyes
1954White ChristmasClooney
Kaye
1954Rear WindowKelly
1955To Catch a Thief
Grant
1955Artists and ModelsMacLaine
1955Lucy Gallantyes
1956The Man Who Knew Too Much (1956 film)Day
1956The Ten Commandments (1956 film)Baxter
1957Three Violent People
1957Witness for the ProsecutionDietrich
1957Funny Faceyes
1958The Matchmaker (1958 film)yes
1958Separate TablesHayworth
1958Teacher's Petyes
Gable
1958VertigoNovak
Stewart
1959Alias Jesse JamesFleming
1959That Kind of WomanLoren
1960Heller in Pink Tights
1961The Facts of Life (film)Ball
1961Breakfast at Tiffany'syes
1961Blue HawaiiPresley
1962Man Who Shot Liberty ValanceWayne
1962Hatari!
1963Donovan's Reefyes
1963Critic's Choiceyes
1963I Could Go On SingingGarland
1963Love with the Proper StrangerWood
1963The Birds (film)Hedren
1964Sex and the Single Girlyes
1964Marnieyes
Baker
1964What a Way to Go!yes
1964Man's Favorite Sport?Hudson
Prentiss
1964The Carpetbaggers (film)Baker
1965Harlow
1965Love Has Many FacesTurner
1965Ship of FoolsSchmidtmer
1965John Goldfarb, Please Come Home!yes
1965Sons of Katie Elderyes
1965Inside Daisy Cloveryes
1965Great Race
1966Penelope
1966This Property Is Condemned
1966El Doradoyes
1966WacoRussell
1966Torn CurtainAndrews
Newman
1967HotelOberon
1967Barefoot in the ParkFonda
1968Berserk!Crawford
1968Hellfightersyes
1969Sweet CharityRivera
1969Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kidyes
Ross
1969TopazJade
1970Myra Breckinridgeyes
1973Ash Wednesdayyes
1973StingRedford
1974EarthquakeGardnerUncredited
1975Great Waldo PepperRedford
Sarandon
1975Rooster CogburnHepburn
1975The Man Who Would Be King (film)Caine
Connery
1976Gable and LombardClayburgh
1976Family PlotBlack
1976W. C. Fields and MePerrine
1978Sextetteyes
1980Last Married Couple in AmericaHarper
yes
1982Dead Men Don't Wear PlaidMartinFinal feature film credit

Screen appearances

YearTitleRoleNotes
1955Lucy GallantHerself
1961Pleasure of His CompanyDress designerUncredited
1966The Oscar (film)Herself
1973ColumboHerselfEpisode: "Requiem for a Falling Star"

Accolades

Head received eight Academy Awards for Best Costume Design, more than any other person, from a total of 35 nominations.

InstitutionYearCategoryNominated workOutcome
Academy Awards1949Best Costume Design – ColorEmperor Waltz
1950Best Costume Design – Black & WhiteThe Heiress (film)
1951All About Eve
Best Costume Design – ColorSamson and Delilah
1952Best Costume Design – Black & WhiteA Place in the Sun (1951 film)
1953Carrie
Best Costume Design – ColorThe Greatest Show on Earth (film)
1954Best Costume Design – Black & WhiteRoman Holiday
1955Sabrina
1956The Rose Tattoo
Best Costume Design – ColorTo Catch a Thief
1957Best Costume Design – Black & WhiteProud and Profane
Best Costume Design – ColorThe Ten Commandments (1956 film)
1958Best Costume DesignFunny Face
1959The Buccaneer (1958 film)
1960Best Costume Design – Black & WhiteCareer
Best Costume Design – ColorFive Pennies
1961Best Costume Design – Black & WhiteThe Facts of Life (film)
Best Costume Design – ColorPepe
1962Pocketful of Miracles
1963Costume Design – Black & WhiteMan Who Shot Liberty Valance
Best Costume Design – ColorMy Geisha
1964Best Costume Design – Black & WhiteLove with the Proper Stranger
Wives and Lovers
Best Costume Design – ColorNew Kind of Love
1965Best Costume Design – Black & WhiteA House Is Not a Home (film)
Best Costume Design – ColorWhat a Way to Go!
1966Best Costume Design – Black & WhiteSlender Thread
Best Costume Design – ColorInside Daisy Clover
1967The Oscar (film)
1970Best Costume DesignSweet Charity
1971Airport
1974Sting
1976The Man Who Would Be King
1978Airport '77
British Academy Film Awards1976Best Costume Designyes
Costume Designers Guild Awards1999Hall of Fame

Notes

References


Sources


External links


Category:1897 births
Category:1981 deaths
Category:American costume designers
Category:American people of Austrian-Jewish descent
Category:American people of German-Jewish descent
Category:American women costume designers
Category:Artists from Los Angeles
Category:Best Costume Design Academy Award winners
Category:Burials at Forest Lawn Memorial Park (Glendale)
Category:California people in design
Category:Catholics from California
Category:Catholics from Nevada
Category:Converts to Roman Catholicism from Judaism
Category:Fashion designers from Los Angeles
Category:Jewish American film people
Category:Jewish fashion designers
Category:Jews from California
Category:Jews from Nevada
Category:Los Angeles High School alumni
Category:Otis College of Art and Design alumni
Category:People from Hollywood, Los Angeles
Category:People from Redding, California
Category:People from San Bernardino, California
Category:People from Searchlight, Nevada
Category:Stanford University alumni
Category:UC Berkeley College of Letters and Science alumni
Category:20th-century American Jews
Category:20th-century American women